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You should be able to get some mixed with cement already, we can down here. Its pretty straight forward, put up your form work/garden edging then you will have to compact it somehow, wacker pack, roller, piece of timber attached to a sledge hammer anything heavy to compact it will work.
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Hardcore is the term used to describe the mass of solid, not easily degraded materials of low absorbency that is employed in creating a base for heavy load-bearing stone and concrete floors. This includes outdoor areas such as driveways or garage floors. It is made up of large aggregates: materials such as construction waste, for example, tiles ...
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A small amount of mortar mix or Portland cement can be mixed in with the crushed gravel. I use a concrete mixer. Maybe 2 or 3 shovels full of the cement product per wheelbarrow of stone aggregate. The idea is that the aggregate still needs to drain, but the cement makes it so that it is a little firm so that it cannot erode.
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If the concrete is wet and freezes the ice will shatter the cement that binds the aggregate. This causes it to all reduce to the mix that made the concrete in the first place, only smaller. I put crushed asphalt on 400' with a good slope 20 years ago.
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Smashing concrete back into gravel is hard work. Check out how cheap gravel is before you decide that's worth your time. Unless you're looking for an excuse to get a workout. You normally use 3/4" crushed stone, unwashed. You would also normally want a good 2-3" of crushed limestone screening on top of the gravel under the footprint of the wall ...
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The reason concrete cannot be made simply by mixing sand with cement is that it is a composite material that needs a coarse aggregate to achieve this strength. In essence, concrete is a mixture of Portland cement, water, sand, and rocks. The cement or paste coats and binds the sand and rocks. Then, a chemical reaction called hydration, which is ...
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Use chairs that will position your rebar about in the middle of your slab. For example, if you plan to pour 4 inches (10 cm) of concrete, use chairs that are 2 inches (5.1 cm) high. 5. Mix and pour your concrete into the forming. Pour the concrete slowly and evenly throughout the forming.
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Yes. If you have a fluctuating water table that impinges the bottom of the footing, the fine sand and fines below the gravel can work their way into the gravel voids; however, that should not be significant. RE: Crushed Stone Under a Spread Footing. DRC1 (Civil/Environmental) 23 Aug 09 23:20.
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The good news is that even if the bag of concrete is rock hard after being exposed to moisture, you can still use it. It should crush and break apart relatively easily using a hammer. While you won't be able to make the same use of the first bag, you can mix it into a mixture containing three bags of fresh concrete and use it for repairs.
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Yes that is the idea... 1200 pounds at the most on really hard dirt.. Use as many support points as you can, or just do a full perimeter support to help spread out the load. You could make a rectangle out of the cap blocks and lay a 4x4 or 6x6 lengthwise below the front, rear, and side walls. Mike #6 Dustodust, Oct 27, 2013 #7 Dustodust Long timer
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After most of the oil has been absorbed into the mixture, use a hose to spray it off. Next, add a few drops of the liquid soap to the gallon of warm water. Slowly pour the water over the area. Using a wire brush, scrub the area using light circular motions. Continue adding water and scrubbing until the water is gone.
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Concrete is rated on a system that indicates the strength of the mix after it's cured for approximately a month. To make the concrete stronger, add more cement or less sand. The closer you bring the ratio to an even one-to-one of sand to cement, the stronger the rating becomes. This principles works in the opposite direction as well.
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Concrete industry now will have to go for crushed sand or what is called manufactured sand. So far, crushed sand has not been used much in India for the reason that ordinarily crushed sand is flaky. Badly graded rough textured and hence result in production of harsh concrete for the given design parameters. We have been not using
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How Engineers Make Plain Old Dirt as Strong As Concrete. 1. American Tailgating Dates Back to the Civil War. 2. Crabs Could Help Replace Lithium-Ion Batteries. 3. The Do's and Don'ts of Using ...
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If crushed stone moved so much why is it recomended as a base under a 4 " concrete pad!? It's not permenant, it drains well, the advanteges go on and on. My parents have had their hot tub on crushed stone for 8 years, it's level and like new. Why did I go concrete, I let the majority opinion get the best of me I guess. Just my 2 cents.
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Yes, you should put a vapor barrier under concrete slabs to prevent moisture from wicking up into the slab and onto the surface of your concrete slab, patio, or driveway.Ensure the vapor barrier is above both the gravel and rigid and immediately below the slab. Moisture wicking up into a slab can cause unsightly wet spots on top of your slab, and the efflorescence can be hard to remove.
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Yes, crushed concrete is a low-cost driveway material. On the contrary, there are restrictions and problems to be aware of. For example, if you want to have a gorgeous driveway, crushed concrete is hardly your top selection due to its minimal style. This material is best suited for rural residences.
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In the old days, not much — just dirt. Eventually, contractors discovered that it made sense to include a 4-inch-thick layer of crushed stone under the concrete. The crushed stone provides a capillary break that reduces the amount of moisture flowing upward from the damp soil to the permeable concrete.
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It has several sizes of lime or slag chips and a lot of what is called "fines". You spread it out, tamp it down with a compactor and after a short time it compacts to a very hard surface. You can still dig it up with aggressive tire action, but it is better than the stuff you used. George of all trades has a similar recommendation.
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All cement in the paper bags will gradually go hard from the outside in. Typically, its just the very outer surface which was near the paper bag, and this tends to crumble - it does not mean that the cement has gone off. This is natural with any bags stored for a while It has only gone off and of no use, if it forms hard clumps of cement.
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Spread the liquid mix over the existing concrete. Dump it all out onto the existing concrete, then begin spreading it around using a hand trowel or paver. Press down hard on the concrete to work the liquid mix into any cracks as you smooth out the scratch coat layer. The layer of wet concrete doesn't need to be thick.
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Then used a layer of 3/4" crusher run stone (Which is the stone with all the grinds in it) for a base. Compress that layer in as well. Then top it off with 1/2 to 3/8 crusher run. It fills in and packs down everything. If you compress this layer and dont have a lot of drainage issues, it will be there a long time.
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Different types of Crushed concrete: Type 1 Crushed Concrete - 50mm down to dust. Best used as a sub-base for roads, underneath blocks, as well as layering in between concrete or tarmac and as a hard core for projects such as car parks. 6F2; Type 3 Crushed Concrete - 0-63mm reduced fines; Oversized Clean Crushed Concrete - 75mm-100mm (no fines)
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It is absolutely the worse type of rock you can use for a road. What you need is rock that has been crushed with jagged edges. The rock needs to be a variety of sizes from an inch or two down to fines. This mixture when spread out 4 to six inches thick will compact into a solid surface that will shed water and support heavy loads.
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To remove this type of stain from concrete: Pour one-eighth of a cup of liquid dishwashing detergent into a spray bottle, then top off the bottle with warm water and shake well. Spray the concrete ...
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Water-based contact cement is what I use. For regluing small spots I'll often use white glue. Most hard shell cases use some sort of "plush" or long-pile velvet. Older cases used Rayon velvet (and silk velvet before that). After WWII other synthetics came along. Less expensive cases used felt, and cardboard cases use flocking.
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I would never use 3/4 minus again. The fines mean: 1) the base doesn't drain as well 2) the fines can wash out 3) fines turn mushy when saturated For me, its 1) woven geotextile 2) limestone *without* fines 3) woven geotextile 4) oourse sand 5) pavers 6) polymeric sand This drains far better. npanagakis 14 years ago
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Best way to smooth it out and compact it at the same time is a large vibrating drum roller. The crush run needs to be wet when installed, after compacting and drying it will be hard as concrete. Never have worked with crushed concrete before.
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For this, large stone or cobbles 2-inch- or 3-inch-diameter rock are best. When you form the footings, place enough large stone into the wet, mucky zone to get up above the water table. Compact the stone down into the mud, then pour your footing. The large aggregate allows the muck to fill into the pore space, but as long as all the pieces of ...
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Mix the glue and hardener. Apply it directly to your surface and scatter. Use about 2-3mm of glue to make sure everything sticks. Work quickly because the glue hardens fast. Ground preparation before installing the base material for artificial turf on balconies and other hand areas: 1. Measure your area Use a measuring tape to size up your area. 2.
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Aggregates for Concrete Key points • 'Aggregate' is a term for any particulate material. It includes gravel, crushed stone, sand, slag, recycled concrete and geosynthetic aggregates. Aggregate may be natural, manufactured or recycled. • Aggregates make up some 60 -80% of the concrete mix. They provide compressive strength and bulk to concrete.
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This can be crushed to produce a low grade gravel. If this gravel is screened, the larger stuff has more rock while the fines contain more of the lime. Older concrete around here is made from glacial till, so crushing will expose other needed nutrients. The only materials I will avoid are batches from gas stations and other polluted sites.
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Let it pack down 3-4 weeks and cover with crushed concrete. Pack this down and after a couple rains it will be like concrete. Of the two you mentioned, crushed rock. Archdean Registered Joined Jul 15, 2004 2,199 Posts #7 · Feb 21, 2006 Consider base underneath (build up) and a thin (no more than 2")top dressing of a crushed aggregate!!
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A 6x10 utility trailer can carry about a ton safely (check the GVW). Tools for Breaking Up Concrete. Concrete can be found in all kinds of places, like the edges of patios or along a basement foundation; sometimes you might encounter, chunks buried in the ground from a long-ago demolition. Using a rotary hammer to break up concrete
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History- Chemistry- Industries. Cement, one of the most important building materials, is a binding agent that sets and hardens to adhere to building units such as stones, bricks, tiles, etc. Cement generally refers to a very fine powdery substance chiefly made up of limestone (calcium), sand or clay (silicon), bauxite (aluminum) and iron ore ...
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Crushed concrete compacts really hard. Over time chunks can harden and fuse together. In some cases this is a big benefit because your walkway or patio surface will be really hard. But it also means the height can shrink a little. So you'll eventually have to add more material to regain the lost height. Types Of Crushed Concrete
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If you want to pour the resin onto something to create a glossy finish, you want to use a doming resin . This kind of coating resin is high-viscosity to make sure it evenly levels after applying to a surface. While some will still run over the sides when adding it to a flat surface, (for example — creating an epoxy tabletop) it will cling to ...
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The crushed gravel gives the same size of footing as concrete, with the benefit that you can dig thru the gravel if you need to remove or relocate a post. Crushed gravel may also provide some benefit with improved drainage, but the main purpose is to provide the increased surface area to hold the post secure in the wind.
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Add 4 additional inches to this depth. So for a 7 foot post to be buried 2 feet, dig a 28 inch deep hole. Dig twice the diameter of the post. Pour 4 inches of gravel into the hole. Place the post in the hole. If working solo, a brace may be required to hold it upright. Add another 2 inches of gravel around the base of the post.
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